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  #11  
Old 06-11-2012, 08:44 PM
luvtoshowcp luvtoshowcp is offline
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I would avoid pines and spruces. I boarded at a barn that had along fence run planted in short needled pines. While it gave a great visual border, none of the horses would graze anywhere near the trees because of the dropped needles. The pines effectively rendered 1/3 of the pasture useless because the wind scattered the needles quite far.
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  #12  
Old 06-12-2012, 11:04 AM
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walkinghorseowner walkinghorseowner is offline
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How about 12 ft chain link with razor wire on top (facing out) ... for added zing add 220 to it......


actually you may be better off getting some guard dogs to run inside the fence.....
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  #13  
Old 06-12-2012, 01:51 PM
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Mona129 Mona129 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walkinghorseowner View Post
How about 12 ft chain link with razor wire on top (facing out) ... for added zing add 220 to it......


actually you may be better off getting some guard dogs to run inside the fence.....
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  #14  
Old 06-13-2012, 12:35 PM
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CHCrystal CHCrystal is offline
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Liking the razor wire idea, and had considered chainlink with privacy slatting, but it would be upwards of $20k and not very pretty.. We actually DO have guard dogs, but people feel quite secure on the outside of the fence, they are effective at moving babies away from the fence, but that still harasses the babies and interrupts naps...

Bamboo... we have that out in the woods, it's quite invasive and very high maintenance, though also effective .

What about the Thuja Green Giants? Anyone ever used those? They are deer (read goat/horse) resistant, disease resistant and fast growing.
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  #15  
Old 06-13-2012, 02:34 PM
Mare-Girl Mare-Girl is offline
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MULTI FLORA ROSA. Grows thick and full and can't be seen through. Horses can't get through it either. Used to be the fencing of choice in the midwest many ears ago.
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  #16  
Old 06-14-2012, 12:41 AM
Mare-Girl Mare-Girl is offline
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Ooops. That would be, "many Years ago".
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  #17  
Old 06-14-2012, 07:01 AM
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Mona129 Mona129 is offline
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Those multi flora's are the curse of my existence. There is a reason they lost favor. They sucker out like willow but its difficult to kill, difficult to keep controlled, difficult to maintain. They have been known to take over acres and acres of land. They go nuts like honeysuckle does in north carolina, or mint in wisconsin.

When I actually manage to get to the roots, I have to dig the plant out and then kerosene and burn the roots or they come right back. We found the easiest way to deal with them is a backhoe.

Which all means, they could be perfect for you! or something to stay away from.
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  #18  
Old 06-14-2012, 09:03 AM
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Prickly pear cactus tends to keep them away and was used as fencing in the west.
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  #19  
Old 06-14-2012, 02:42 PM
D_BaldStockings D_BaldStockings is offline
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My feeling is you need a non-kid-climb barrier and something people can’t easily toss things through.
And you need it NOW.
It also sounds like your stock can reach through or over the fence to sample what the folks offer and demolish whatever you choose to plant.
I would lean toward reinforcing the existing fence and since I am cheap I would probably look at using very long rebar as posts 15’ sunk 4-5 ft in the ground. Rebar should be tied to the existing fence. I would buy 1”, 6’ tall chicken wire (poultry mesh) 150’ lengths and run a light cable through the top and also through the bottom. I would hang that at the top of my existing fence on the rebar (6’ above the current height. Reinforce the corners with ‘tent-post- type cabling on the rebar. Rebar spacing as needed, probably 16’ or more.
So your reinforced fence is 9-10’ in height. They are far too tall for the horses to impale themselves on, the chicken wire discourages climbing and reaching through and lobbing doesn’t work as well as pitching at the horses.
I don’t know what your existing fence is, but mesh or rail are both easy to climb and throw things through. So I’d likely net the bottom, too and tie that to the top chicken wire panels.
The chicken wire should last 3-5 years, long enough to get a hedge going. I suggest tall pricky junipers, but they are slow. Honey locust with thorns is safe for stock to eat and very discouraging to kids.

You can coppice fast-growing trees like willow and poplar –check the state forest service for suppliers.
http://treesearch.fs.fed.us/pubs/18838

Then I would put up signs near the corners GATE(with an arrow) and at the GATE: GUESTS PLEASE SIGN IN AT OFFICE maybe with your phone #.
People throwing things and chasing the horses are not guests. They know that.

Hot wire is your friend. Good luck.

Oh, I have yet to find plants that deer will not eat - tomatoes, cherry, walnut, apple, oak, maple, EVERYTHING, 'poisonous' or not. I trust livestock less than the deer and it is my vet bill if they get sick, so we are trying to fence trees and shrubs off within the pastures, no matter what they are. And due to the deer our yard is a series of cages round the desired plants.

Last edited by D_BaldStockings : 06-14-2012 at 02:51 PM.
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  #20  
Old 06-14-2012, 03:03 PM
D_BaldStockings D_BaldStockings is offline
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http://salix-willows.blogspot.com/20...dge-fedge.html

for fun!
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